How to Make Overlay Jewelry

Bracelet, sterling silver overlay;  Kathleen Faulkner

                            How to Make Overlay Jewelry

  1.   Come up with a design.
  2.   Draw a pattern from the design, cut it out and paste (elmer's glue is good) onto two sheets of 24 gauge silver that have been glued together.  Super glue works well for this.  I use 24 gauge for earrings, link bracelets (such as the one above) and some brooches.  That is two layers of 24 gauge.  Sometimes I use 22 gauge for the cut out to create a deeper cut,  Large cuff bracelets, rings and  belt buckles will require a larger gauge.
  3.   Drill holes in all the areas to be cut out.
  4.   Put the blade of the jeweler's saw through the drilled holes then saw.
  5.   Sand the edges of the cut-outs.
  6.   Saw out the bottom piece from the double sheet.

Bamboo bead Necklace
sterling silver overlay
Kathleen Faulkner

  7.   Torch the pieces so that the glue will burn up and they will come apart.  You will then have two top pieces and two bottom pieces.  I do this especially for earrings so that the design is the same on both tops. It would also be helpful for bracelets such as the one above.
  8.   Rinse and Dry.
  9.   Stamp name and s.s. hallmark on the back of the bottom pieces.

10.   Sand all surfaces on all pieces of silver.

11.   Clean the surfaces that were just sanded.
12.   Paint both surfaces with flux then place solder on the bottom side of the cut out surface.
13.   After the flux is dried, place the surface with the solder onto the bottom piece of solid silver.
14.   Solder the two surfaces together then drop into pickle, let sit while you do other things... maybe take a break..
15.   Take the piece out of the pickle, wash with soap and water then dry.
16.   Sand the surface to check for firescale.  Overlay has a tendency for this. If found, sand until it's gone.
17.   File the edges.
18.   If the piece requires components such as pin backs, ear posts, bails, etc., solder those now.
19.   Check again for firescale.  See #16.
20.   Buff the piece to the desired finish.
21.   Clean in ultrasonic solution.
22.   Wash again, with soap and water.  Dry with a soft cloth.
23.   Paint oxidation in the recessed areas on the top surface.
24.   Rinse, dry, wipe brow.
25.   Buff with a buffing stick and jewelry compound.
26.   Add whatever findings to be used with the piece: pin stems, ear nuts or wires, chains, etc.
27.   Type up a price list of the work going to wherever it's going.
28.   Pack up and then deliver.
29.   Hope the gallery loves it.
30.   Come home and take a nap.

Gun and Holster Brooch, sterling silver
overlay, found pottery shard;
Kathleen Faulkner